Systematization of the knowledge of relevant signals in evaluating the surf zone (2013)

 

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Abstract:

Contributing to the beach safety of surf zone users, this study aims to systematize the “Wave Knowledge” of the most efficient lifeguards, classifying the indicators relevant to recognition of spacial and temporal patterns and risk factors. This is evidenced in proficiency on motor tasks essential equally to sport as surf rescuing: Positioning in the lineup, catching waves/ returning to shore (when “Wave judgement” is needed). We start from Surf Sciences, then research Surfing Sport’s manuals, also the prospective procedures of experts in extreme surf conditions, and observed top surfers in Competition, to put up a Classification of the visual signs used (sea and swell, wind, tide, seabed configuration, currents, and details of breaking wave’s forms). Then used it as a Questionnaire to filter the “relative importance of the signals”, chosen by 11 surf national champions/ coaches, practitioners for over 15 years (male and female). Results show that experienced surfers evaluate all elements of the “waves-currents system”, considering of greater importance the location, type and intensity of maritime currents (except under conditions of small waves), and the swell characteristics (angle of arrival to coast, height, period). They vary the importance of the signs according to the wave height and the wave break types. They attend the configuration of seabed and coast profile. As for the surf quality, meet characteristics of the coastal wind and temporal characteristics of the tides. For the strength of the surf and the take off point, the focus is on sections and wave face profiles (slope, thickness).

 

Keywords: Beach Safety, Coastal Currents, Surf, Sport Systematics, Wave Knowledge, Lineup, Visual Signs, Patterns.